This blog describes my build of a Solo microBootlegger kayak as designed by Nick Schade of Guillemot Kayaks. Before I get into the nitty-gritty of this project I'd like to explain how I reached the decision to build this kayak. Back in 2011 I built an Acorn 15 rowing boat which I enjoyed rowing and still do. Time passed and I wanted a small boat the would fit inside ny 4x4 and be light and easy to carry; this was a Water Rat. I enjoyed rowing and thought I would try a rowing skiff with a sliding seat so I built a Derwent Skiff. This was a lovely boat and I enjoyed using it but my aging back couldn't handle the increased load caused by using my legs so I was back to rowing the Acorn 15 and paddling the Water Rat. Where I paddle regularly on the Brisbane River there is a small group of enthusiastic paddlers in a variety of kayaks including a beautiful kayak made by Struer.. Watching these guys started me thinking about building a longer paddle craft similar in appearance to the Struer. I was concerned about two things; could I manage the lifting involved in transporting a long boat on top of a car and would I enjoy it. I decided to build a quick and easy, low cost, stitch and glue kayak - a Chesapeake Light Craft CLC 16 - before I began a longer term, more difficult, higher cost strip built kayak. to test the water. I built the CLC 16 and found that I could handle it and enjoy using it but found the keyhole shaped cockpit opening was too small for my long and not so bendy legs (I made it bigger).

So, that's the background to my decision to build Nick Schade's Solo microBootlegger. Here's a picture of one that I found on the Internet.

this is an image added to the cross column

this is an image added to the cross column
Isn't it a beautiful shape! Now read on.

Saturday, 11 April 2020

First Half of the Bottom Done.

After adding a couple of strips below the waterline I was approaching the chine. It isn't a sharp corner but on some frames it has a small radius. I thought about cutting a few strips in half so the narrower strips would better fit around the corner. In the end I continued with the 16 mm strips and think I got away with it. towards the stern I had to bevel both strips to get a good joint.

As the ends of the strips passed the centre line they became shorter and easier to fit particularly on the flatter section of the bottom. A quick swipe with the Robo Bevel ensure a good fit for the next strip. Here's a photo at the start of the day after the previous days clamps and tape had been removed.


In the next photo another strip has been fitted. The tape is closing up the joint until the glue takes hold which might take a couple of hours. The spring clamps are holding slotted pieces of plywood to hold the strip down.

The tape and clamps can't be removed until the glue has set enough to hold the strip. To speed things up hot melt glue "stitches" were used to hold the joint together. The stitches are simply blobs of hot melt glue placed across the join every 60 or 70 mm. These hold the join together and allow the tape and spring clamps to be removed. This speeds up the process a lot allowing a couple of strips to be added in an hour.
Here's a photo with all the port side strips in place. Tomorrow the centre line will be marked and the excess material cut off with a hand saw and the cleaned up with a plane.



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